A Visit to Tsukuda

When I started putting this post together, it would be about my wandering through Tsukuda and a bit about the manga and anime March Comes in Like a Lion, 3月のライオン. 

Because along with the characters, many of the scenes captivated me. So I decided to take a look during my last visit to Tokyo.

And I did see places that were shown in the anime. But I also discovered there is a bit of history here too.

Spanning a tributary of the Sumida River, it is hard to miss the Tsukuda Kobashi (Tsukuda Little Bridge). It is a popular location, made even prettier with the sakura trees beginning to bloom.

Also there is this little playground, which I think was in the anime.

You would think the Tsukuda Kobashi would be historical given it's appearance. There has been a bridge in this area going back to Edo times, but it's current vermilion look was completed in 1984.

What I missed seeing is that there are buildings in this area that date back to Edo. While this isn't one, I thought it's appearance was a little unusual. Turns out it's a Chinese restaurant, Ri:Jan.

Tsukuda isn't a big area. It was a sandbar which over time was filled in with boulders and landfill. Still people are able to grow various plants including this fruit bearing tree. Not sure if they are oranges or mikan, but it was really nice to see.

I did have a destination in mind, but there were interesting things to see along the way. Like the Tsukuda Machikado Museum which houses their 3.75 ton portable shrine Sengan Mikoshi and twin lion masks called Ryuko and Kurokama, which date from the Bunsei era in the early 1800's. They are taken out every three years for their Hon Matsuri. In fact this year it will happen on August 3rd. And just to note, I must have been in vampire mode when I took this photo. No reflection in the mirror or windows. 

Another favorite place for people at Tsukuda island is the Ishikawajima park that wraps around along the Sumida River. It is featured a lot in the anime. Even on a grey cloudy day I found it a relaxing place to visit.

Just a look at one of the many bridges in the area, the Tsukuda Ohashi. Along with one of the water taxis that ferry people along the Sumida River.

Along the way is a directional paver that points to a few bridges and the river. The image reflects back to when Tsukuda was a place of fishermen and boat builders. Ieyasu Tokugawa recruited fishermen from Osaka to come to the sandbar in hopes of building a fishing village there. The name Tsukuda comes from the area where they came from,  Tsukudamura. By 1644 fishing was thriving in Tsukuda.

There are a number of stairs and ramps along the river. This one leads up to the replica Ishikawajima lighthouse. The original was built in 1866. This area was once a ninsoku yoseba, a place for criminals and exiles. Starting in 1790 it was a place for rehabilitation where they were taught a trade and hopefully returned to society. Records show there was success with this.

One of the waterways that divide the area.

And back to seeing the Sumida River and the park that runs along it. In the distance is one of the many flood control gates that are on various Tokyo rivers and waterways. There have been devastating floods in the past so much work has been done in hopes to keep the city safe.

And the lovely Chuo Ohashi. Which was one of the bridges I wanted to see. It is featured in many of the anime episodes. It is a cable-stayed bridge, completed in 1993. Just beyond it you can see Sky Tree tower.

Going down to the park I was lucky to see the start of sakura blooming. A good number of trees in this area make this a popular place for sakura viewing.

Another look at the Tsukuda Ohashi. It was building in 1964 and where it runs along the island marks the border between Tsukuda and Tsukishima.

And the Chuo Ohashi. I spent a bit of time here.

It was very relaxing being at the water front. A nice feeling given I was only a short distance from very busy and crowded places. The cloudy weather may have kept people away. I could have stayed there a lot longer.

Another look at the lighthouse and one of the many sets of stairs I walked up this trip. As to the bronze statue of the girl holding her hat, I have not found the name of her sculptor. But I did find that she is called "みどりの風", Midori no Kaze. Rough translation is Wind of Midori (green and is also a common name in Japan).

Heading back to the subway station and a look at the Sumiyoshiko Bridge (bashi).

It's nice when there is a sign with the name of the bridge. The bridge goes across the waterway with the weeping willow and sakura trees.

Tsukuda has shrines and that should be my next post. There is also this really large red torii, which belongs to Sumiyoshi Shrine.

One last look at one of the older buildings in the area. This one has a bit of current history to it. It is the Nakajima Laquerware house, where Hideyasu Nakajima, an 11th generation laquerware artist plies his trade. He is known for his handmade hakkaku ohashi (eight-sided chopsticks) in ebony, ironwood and black rosewood. I actually saw him but felt best not to take his photograph since I was at a distance. Information about Nakajima is here. 

One last look at some of the sakura I found at Tsukuda.

And just one more screen capture from March Comes in Like a Lion, with the park way and Sumida River at night.