Last Day in Sadness

One last look at the Furukawa in between Shiba and Hamamatsucho. Overhead? The Inner Circular Route, a toll way through Tokyo. I'm glad the old fashioned dinner boats are still moored on the river.

Hoping to enjoy my last moments in Tokyo with a pint I head to Devil Craft. Except it was not to be because they stopped serving lunch on Saturday. Probably closest to a selfie I've posted here. Odd shaped but then I'm holding my camera up. Medium height, black clothing, long brunette hair, yup that's me.

When I mentioned in a previous post that there were more places to buy food in this area since 2011, My Basket is one reason. There are now a couple of these markets in the area which is a very good thing. Fresh food for those who live here and more options for to-go food.

Checked in with the local Jizo. He's still well tended to although I noticed one of the bags was removed. I also stopped by the little Inari shrine, plaid my respects and hoped I would be back some day.

The pedestrian tunnel under the Daiichi Keihin, Japan National Route 15, still open and still a bit creepy.

I've noticed the more creepy places in Tokyo tend to be near places with activity. As though just out of the corner of everyone's eyes. Get's my imagination fired up. It's good, makes me want to be creative. This passage is one of those.

End of the Furukawa where it flows into the canals along Tokyo Bay and the Sumida River.

With the Inner Circular Route above it.

Pretty blue skies this March, unlike the last March I was here. Felt welcoming even on the day I was leaving.

Older hand painted map of the area. Once again surprised this wasn't replaced by something newer. But it is nice they kept it.

I walked along the canal taking in the feeling of the water and the area. One of the flood gates set up around Tokyo. Being a Saturday there were not many people out in the area.

Beyond that a bridge and more office buildings. Across the way may have been Shibaura Ungazoi Green Space, a much needed relief from all the concrete and glass.

I sat for a bit taking in the moment. I felt sad wondering if this would be the last I could be here. It does take a lot to make the journey but I also discovered during this trip that something was wrong with my eye sight. I realized at some point I could not read the signs in train stations. While I had previously noticed before the trip I was having a little double vision looking at things from a distance, I thought it was just my astigmatism getting a little worse. But now I was having trouble with even closer signs, especially with my right eye. I knew something wasn't okay and would need to see an optometrist. So I had this hanging over me also. 

One of the many tour boats that sail the canals and rivers around Tokyo. Really nice day to be out on the water.

Continued walking. I've been through this area before which is a bit of land between the canal and Tokyo Bay/Sumida River. With the brown grass this sculpture has an out of place look to it.

Always finding spots where Tokyo residents try to cheer up nondescript places. This time with pansies which a random pigeon was visiting.

Probably the best known building in this area is Toshiba. Company isn't doing so well lately.

Final stop was to get something to eat. Most places in the area were closed but Tully's was open. Except at that time of day there wasn't much to eat so went with their egg salad sandwich and cold tea. They do brew a decent cup of tea.

Picked up my bags, headed to Daimon Station and the Airport Express train. That express is one of the reasons I like staying in this area. Makes it easy to get to Narita Airport. This time I was able to get a photo of the seat covers. Pink for being on the Asakusa Line, jets for connecting both Narita and Haneda Airports.

And tea later on in Narita Airport while I waited for my flight to Los Angeles Airport. Won't say much except LAX now makes me appreciate Vancouver Airport. And I use to like going to LAX. At least my tea with Laduree Langues de Chat cookies was good. I noticed this time they used a nice velvet ribbon and charm around the box. Having tea makes me feel a little spoiled and is a nice way to take a moment in a busy day. Definitely the high point of my return trip.

And while I was sad to be leaving, there were amazing things I experienced. "David Bowie is", the two Moi dix Mois concerts, enjoying music things and window shopping with my French friend, that fountain and art at the palace, getting away to Okutama, and just being in Japan.

This isn't the end of my posts about visiting Tokyo. Because there are still Kit Kats and Calbee Chips to discuss. Along with an interesting food item I brought back with me. 

Back to Hamamatsucho in Tokyo

Six years had passed since I spent time in Hamamatsucho in Tokyo. I was curious what changed. The Furukawa was still the same with the restaurant boats and more.

New was Devil Craft Chicago Pizza and Craft Beer, a very American style place that offers beer they create at their brewery. I had hoped to get in to try their "White Face Devil" brew.

The Jizo statue was still there and still getting attention.

There are a lot more bars and restaurants in the Hamamatsucho area just south of Hamamatsucho Station. I can't remember if Warayakiya Izakaya was here six years ago. With the striking dark facade I would have noticed it. Checking online it looks like it's only been here for a couple years.

 Meishu Center Tokyo Sake Tasting Bar is definitely new and a place I was tempted to visit. If I get back I will try to stop in when it's not crowded.

 Nippon Maguro Gyogyodan is also new. So new it doesn't show on Google Maps. I actually figured out the name from their signage. And yes this place is known for it's tuna.

Further from Hamamatsucho Station on the other side of Daiichi-Keihin National Route I found a few interesting things. Like this window full of clowns and noise makers.

Another window reminded me why I had Tomad shops marked on my map. I was walking by when the colorful Kracie's Tabino Yado hot springs milky assortment pack came into view. A bath favorite at a really good price compared to what they are sold for in the US.

Another kind of window back by Hamamatsucho Station where a very large building is being constructed. I have never seen a public decibel level meter at construction sites in the US. Definitely something good to have.

Last window, this time looking out at Hamamatsucho from a place in Shibadaimon. A place that was still there amongst all the refurbished buildings in the area. A place I remember fondly for serving the first hot meal I was able to enjoy back in March, 2011.

MOS Burger where I enjoyed another shrimp burger. I think I even sat in the same seat that I sat in six years ago.

Also enjoyed their delicious onion rings. Wishing I could have some right now.

Hamamatsucho has changed. I noticed a lot more people on the side streets at night enjoying the places to eat and drink. During the day everyone is busy walking to and from work but at night it's a different feeling. There is a definite night life happening in Hamamatsucho now.

Lions and Foxes at Sanuki-Kohaku Inari Shrine Oh My!

If you head south from Hamamatsucho Station down one of the side streets near a corner you will be greeted by this traditional komainu.

Along with a lot of colorful banners.

 Which makes it easy to find this small yet unusual and interesting shrine.

Unusual because there isn't just one gate but two.

Which lead to not one but two Inari shrines.

Along with not your traditional komainu guarding the gates.

But more modern looking lions. Just guessing but I think part of this may be due to one of the purposes of this shrine. Which is to pray for strength.

Walking inside I found an actual relative of lions.

Along with many foxes. Inari Okami's kitsune messengers. 

The lanterns and kitsune surround the larger Inari shrine.

Inari Okami is well attended here.

I was unable to get a look at the interior but there is a lot going on here. Another indicator this is an Inari shrine is the rice grains seal on the offering box.

 Still more kitsune including one hidden in the plants. Can you see him? Also interesting that all the flowering plants have red flowers. Red being an important color in Shintoism, used for protection.

Due to the wear on this fellow he may be one of original kitsune. I don't know if this stone gives information about the two shrines but I can write that it is presumed that the Sanuki-Kohaku shrine was founded between 1624 - 1644. It was originally part of the shimoyashiki (second residence) of the Matsudaira family of the Takamatsu clan and had to be moved in Meiji 3 when the land was paved over for the railroads. (info at this website)

Now I said there are two Inari Okami shrines here. The first is Sanuki which I'm guessing is the larger shrine because the second is Koyaki Inari Shrine and references of it mention small white foxes. Across from the larger wooden shrine is this interesting lava rock shrine complete with small torii and small white kitsune along with black and stone ones.

 Koyaki Inari Shrine is opposite the larger Sanuki Inari Shrine and just behind the chōzuya. From what I have read, this is an unusual placement for the shrines. You can see the red torii on the side of the shrine. I could not find a date Koyaki Shrine was founded but it also was a part of a residence, possibly right at this location in Hamamatsucho ward. It was destroyed during WWII and rebuilt in 1965. (information from this site) I am not sure if Koyaki is also the same as Kohaku since when you search in English the shrines name includes Kohaku but in Japanese the name Koyaki is mentioned in translation for this specific shrine.

The lion relative was also enjoying the water basin. Not sure if he is also a kami or just guarding the shrines.

Along all the unusual things here are also the usual items one finds at Shinto shrines like ema prayer plaques. The majority here have kitsune foxes. Being a business area it makes sense that many come here to pray for financial success. Since providing prosperity is one of Inari Okami's main traits.

Looking from the side I could see one ema that was different, showing a bucking horse. Why in this Inari centric shrine complex? Because horses represent strength.

At the time these shrines were established the area here was known as a training ground for samurai and others. Along with learning skillful dance the practice of stone lifting, chikarashi, 力石, was done here. While I can not read most of the kanji on these, I can see it says these are strength-stones.

Along with all this is a directional stone. One could center themselves here if they wanted to. As you can see from the photo I am off-center, just a bit east of south.

One last look at these unusual shrines from under the second gate.

 Which is right next to the first gate. Also unusual. It was tinted red by the many red banners.

While there are much larger shrines to visit in Tokyo, sometimes the local small shrines can be interesting and can have a lot more in them than expected. This pair definitely does.