A Walk Along a River

After my time in Ueno, I headed over to the Sumida River. On the Asakusa side. Across were some famous Tokyo buildings. 

On the left is the very obvious Sky Tree tower. The building on the right is the Sumida Ward Office. 

From this angle, the Asahi Brewery Headquarters building does look like a beer mug with the condominium building behind it as the handle. And there is the Golden Flame of the Asahi Beer Hall.

Some other day I will explore that side of the river. For now, I was here to take a walk along the river thorough Sumida Park. 

Actually I didn't have far to walk.  

Just to this bridge for the Tobu Isesaki Rail Line. The blue bridge just beyond this is the Kotokoibashi.

As to why I was there, it was this photo of the late MALICE MIZER drummer Kami. I wanted to add a photo to the MALICE MIZER Locations map. Guitarist and founder Mana had posted this photo on Twitter this summer in memory of Kami. 

Although it was not a sunny day like the original photo and the grasses had grown taller, I was able to find the spot. It was a good place to sit nearby and think about my trip and about what Kami means to people. And to think of what I wanted to do with the little time I had left in Japan.

A Visit to Tsukuda

When I started putting this post together, it would be about my wandering through Tsukuda and a bit about the manga and anime March Comes in Like a Lion, 3月のライオン. 

Because along with the characters, many of the scenes captivated me. So I decided to take a look during my last visit to Tokyo.

And I did see places that were shown in the anime. But I also discovered there is a bit of history here too.

Spanning a tributary of the Sumida River, it is hard to miss the Tsukuda Kobashi (Tsukuda Little Bridge). It is a popular location, made even prettier with the sakura trees beginning to bloom.

Also there is this little playground, which I think was in the anime.

You would think the Tsukuda Kobashi would be historical given it's appearance. There has been a bridge in this area going back to Edo times, but it's current vermilion look was completed in 1984.

What I missed seeing is that there are buildings in this area that date back to Edo. While this isn't one, I thought it's appearance was a little unusual. Turns out it's a Chinese restaurant, Ri:Jan.

Tsukuda isn't a big area. It was a sandbar which over time was filled in with boulders and landfill. Still people are able to grow various plants including this fruit bearing tree. Not sure if they are oranges or mikan, but it was really nice to see.

I did have a destination in mind, but there were interesting things to see along the way. Like the Tsukuda Machikado Museum which houses their 3.75 ton portable shrine Sengan Mikoshi and twin lion masks called Ryuko and Kurokama, which date from the Bunsei era in the early 1800's. They are taken out every three years for their Hon Matsuri. In fact this year it will happen on August 3rd. And just to note, I must have been in vampire mode when I took this photo. No reflection in the mirror or windows. 

Another favorite place for people at Tsukuda island is the Ishikawajima park that wraps around along the Sumida River. It is featured a lot in the anime. Even on a grey cloudy day I found it a relaxing place to visit.

Just a look at one of the many bridges in the area, the Tsukuda Ohashi. Along with one of the water taxis that ferry people along the Sumida River.

Along the way is a directional paver that points to a few bridges and the river. The image reflects back to when Tsukuda was a place of fishermen and boat builders. Ieyasu Tokugawa recruited fishermen from Osaka to come to the sandbar in hopes of building a fishing village there. The name Tsukuda comes from the area where they came from,  Tsukudamura. By 1644 fishing was thriving in Tsukuda.

There are a number of stairs and ramps along the river. This one leads up to the replica Ishikawajima lighthouse. The original was built in 1866. This area was once a ninsoku yoseba, a place for criminals and exiles. Starting in 1790 it was a place for rehabilitation where they were taught a trade and hopefully returned to society. Records show there was success with this.

One of the waterways that divide the area.

And back to seeing the Sumida River and the park that runs along it. In the distance is one of the many flood control gates that are on various Tokyo rivers and waterways. There have been devastating floods in the past so much work has been done in hopes to keep the city safe.

And the lovely Chuo Ohashi. Which was one of the bridges I wanted to see. It is featured in many of the anime episodes. It is a cable-stayed bridge, completed in 1993. Just beyond it you can see Sky Tree tower.

Going down to the park I was lucky to see the start of sakura blooming. A good number of trees in this area make this a popular place for sakura viewing.

Another look at the Tsukuda Ohashi. It was building in 1964 and where it runs along the island marks the border between Tsukuda and Tsukishima.

And the Chuo Ohashi. I spent a bit of time here.

It was very relaxing being at the water front. A nice feeling given I was only a short distance from very busy and crowded places. The cloudy weather may have kept people away. I could have stayed there a lot longer.

Another look at the lighthouse and one of the many sets of stairs I walked up this trip. As to the bronze statue of the girl holding her hat, I have not found the name of her sculptor. But I did find that she is called "みどりの風", Midori no Kaze. Rough translation is Wind of Midori (green and is also a common name in Japan).

Heading back to the subway station and a look at the Sumiyoshiko Bridge (bashi).

It's nice when there is a sign with the name of the bridge. The bridge goes across the waterway with the weeping willow and sakura trees.

Tsukuda has shrines and that should be my next post. There is also this really large red torii, which belongs to Sumiyoshi Shrine.

One last look at one of the older buildings in the area. This one has a bit of current history to it. It is the Nakajima Laquerware house, where Hideyasu Nakajima, an 11th generation laquerware artist plies his trade. He is known for his handmade hakkaku ohashi (eight-sided chopsticks) in ebony, ironwood and black rosewood. I actually saw him but felt best not to take his photograph since I was at a distance. Information about Nakajima is here. 

One last look at some of the sakura I found at Tsukuda.

And just one more screen capture from March Comes in Like a Lion, with the park way and Sumida River at night.

Walking Through Tsukishima: Aioibashi

Partway through my Tokyo trip I switched hotels. Not because there was anything wrong with where I was staying, but because I wanted to check out another part of Tokyo and the room rates were a lot less. So on the day I changed places, I had time in between. I left my bags at the first hotel and headed out to an area not far from Tsukiji and Ginza. One of the first things I saw there was this bridge. The Aioibashi. 

Tokyo has so many bridges, some with histories and others that became famous for their appearance. The Aioi isn't famous for it's appearance and doesn't have much a history except for it's name. Which translates to "good couple". Why this name? Read on for the answer. 

While the bridge isn't much to see the views are not bad. Like this ship with amazing rigging. The green cross flag may be a Japanese flag of safety and health.  This is the Meiji-maru, built in Scotland in 1873 for the Japanese government. The ship tended lighthouses and at one time Emperor Meiji sailed on it. It is now a museum. The flag may be there because they are doing work on it.

Aioibashi is one of several bridges that span across the Sumida River. That's Eitai Bridge in the distance, which is known for it's appearance. Across the way is Etchujima, or Etchu Island.

A look at one of the greenways that line the Sumida River. This one is called Ishikawajima Park and it wraps around the end of this island. Again the Eitai Bridge and just beyond is the tip of Sky Tree Tower. 

Like a lot of Tokyo, this part is home to many nondescript buildings. Office buildings, apartments, there isn't much that gives them character. Although the views of the river may be nice.

 On the left is Tsukuda Island. I will have photos of it in another post.

That green wooded area may look like it is the other side but actually it's a little island in the middle of the river. Nakanoshima Park. I'm not sure if there is a way to get there from the bridge. And this may be why the name of the bridge is "Good Couple". Because there use to be two bridges here. One long, one short. My guess is they met at Nakano Island. When the Great Kanto Earthquake happened in 1923 both bridges burned. The current truss bridge is made of steel and was completed in 1998-2000. It's 489.17 feet long or 149.1 meters. 

My walk across the the Aioibashi wasn't that boring. There was a bird sighting. Of a massive Jungle Crow or Large Billed Crow. I wish there was something that could show the size of this bird. They are impressive.